1. šaty
Difficulty: * You will need: natural or mixed silk; lining; fusing; zipper. Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Back part - 2 details2. Front part - 1 folded detail Lining:
1. Back part - 2 details
2. Front part - 1 folded detail Fusing: apply stripes of fusible interfacing 2 cm (3/4") wide to wrong side of lining neckline and back/front armholes (copy shape of armhole/neckline and add 3/4”).
Instructions:
1. Sew back middle seam from closure mark downwards. Serge seam allowances and press them apart; press closure slit edges.2. Sew front/back darts. Press waist darts towards the center; press bust darts downwards.
3. Sew the zipper in with its teeth hidden.
4. Assemble pieces of lining (see pp.1-2).
5. Line up shell and lining face-to-face, and sew together along neckline and armholes. Clip curved allowances of neckline and armholes. Turn the dress right side out (you should have “shoulder tunnel” at each shoulder). Press neckline and armholes. By now, you should have two lined units of dress – lined Front and lined Back.
6. Line up Front and Back of lining face-to-face, Front and Back of shell face-to-face (matching the point underneath armhole where shell meets lining), baste (lining Front to lining Back, shell Front to shell Back) and stitch each side seam at one go. Press allowances open.
7. Sew shoulder seams, lining up each two shoulder ends face-to-face. Serge seam allowances and press them apart. (Another option is to turn inside shoulder allowances of Back and press; insert shoulder allowances of Front into the tunnel, baste together and stitch shoulder seam through all layers to join front and back).
8. Edgestitch the dress along neckline and armholes. Hand-sew turned in edges of lining to the zipper tape.
9. Serge hems of shell and lining separately. Press the hem to wrong side and topstitch. Turn under lining hem so that it’s 2 cm (3/4") shorter than shell, topstitch.
2. šaty
Difficulty: * You will need: crepe-de-chine; fusing; zipper. Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
2. Back central part - 2 details
3. Back side part - 2 details
4. Front side part - 2 details
5. Front central part - 1 folded detail
6. Front facing - 1 folded detail
7. Back facing - 2 detailsFusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front neckline facing and back neckline facing.
2. Sew back panel to front one. Gather skirt upper edge and sew it to dress upper part, right sides together.
3. Sew back middle seam downwards from closure mark. Serge seam allowance and press them apart, press closure slit edges. Sew the zipper in with its teeth hidden.
4. Sew shoulder/side seams of facings. Fold facings to main detail, right sides together, and overstitch along edges of neckline and armholes. Pull facings right side out through shoulder alit, fold them out and topstitch them on seam allowances at 1-2 mm (1/16") from stitch. Fold facing free ends under near the closure, and sew them to zipper braid. Fix facings under armholes.
5. Fold the hem 1 cm (3/8") into wrong side and sew by hand.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Back panel - 2 details2. Back central part - 2 details
3. Back side part - 2 details
4. Front side part - 2 details
5. Front central part - 1 folded detail
6. Front facing - 1 folded detail
7. Back facing - 2 detailsFusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front neckline facing and back neckline facing.
Instructions:
1. Sew front and back princess seams. Slash a corner in front part when stitching. Sew side/shoulder seams.2. Sew back panel to front one. Gather skirt upper edge and sew it to dress upper part, right sides together.
3. Sew back middle seam downwards from closure mark. Serge seam allowance and press them apart, press closure slit edges. Sew the zipper in with its teeth hidden.
4. Sew shoulder/side seams of facings. Fold facings to main detail, right sides together, and overstitch along edges of neckline and armholes. Pull facings right side out through shoulder alit, fold them out and topstitch them on seam allowances at 1-2 mm (1/16") from stitch. Fold facing free ends under near the closure, and sew them to zipper braid. Fix facings under armholes.
5. Fold the hem 1 cm (3/8") into wrong side and sew by hand.